Ice Climbing Itinerary
We have some of the greatest variety and best ice climbing in the Southern French Alps and climbers come from all over the world to sample it.
As such we have a wealth of sites to choose from and we will adapt the itinerary when you are here to make the most of local conditions. Later in the week, once we know everyone's abilities and aspirations, we'll also tailor the choices to suit you.
This is a suggested itinerary to give you an idea of some of the ice climbing possibilities available in the area.
For the first two days you will be in a group of maximum 6 people with one guide and for the last three days you will be in pairs with one guide per pair.
All the guides we use for ice climbing are UIAGM high mountain guides with lots of ice climbing experience and local knowlegde.
We'll come and collect you from Gap train station and take you up to your accommodation where you'll meet the rest of the group. Once everyone has arrived we'll have a welcome drink, go through the week together and answer any questions you might have.
Then you can sit down to a lovely meal prepared by Stephanie before a good night's sleep to prepare your self for tomorrow!
Your guide will come and collect you in the morning and take you to the Tourengs a fantastic ice climbing venue perfect for beginners.
A short approach from the road, beautiful views over the river and valley and good quality ice! The Tourengs is a large 200m cliff with several waterfalls and consists of several short pitches with the option of longer (up to 200m) multi pitch routes of a variety of grades.
It's ideal to get started on as you can focus on technique, rope work and safety without being too physically committed!
You will start off on top ropes and learn the basics of placing your ice axes and crampons and optimising your energy and strength (very important for ice climbing)! You will also learn about different types of ice and its behaviour, rope technique and safety.
For lunch we will make a group decision each day as to whether we take a picnic or eat in a restaurant which will also depend on weather conditions and venue. As we are near to civilisation today and it is the first day, we usually go for the restaurant option!
In the afternoon we will continue and your guide will focus on your individual strengths and weaknesses giving you exercises to do to perfect your technique.
Today we'll go somewhere else - maybe to the falls in Molines on the other side of the mountain to where you are staying for a change of scenery!
After yesterday, you should have a good grasp of basic rope technique and have mastered to a greater or lesser degree the art of optimising your energy and strength!!
Today, you will take that a stage further and learn how to use the rope for longer routes. You will look at different belaying systems, placing ice screws and other gear and removing them!
The routes will be longer with 2 - 3 pitches so you can practice multi pitch climbing and there will be the opportunity for you to have a go at leading if you want to!
Prapic 1513m is a beautiful little alpine village at the end of the valley. It is still inhabited all year round by four families and has preserved it's authentic alpine charm and architecture.
It is also home to some fantastic ice climbing such as the 300m Pisse Bernard.
You will now be in pairs with one guide per pair and should be ready to go for a longer and more technical climb.
Your guide will help you decide which route to do but the Pisse Bernard is a fantastic challenge at grade 4 with 7 pitches. Have a look at this great
photo of ice climber Khrisna Nacua climbing some of the ice moguls on the fall! otherwise there are several choices of grade 3 routes equally majestic!
You will be out for the full day so will need to take picnic, snacks and a hot flask!
There is a very good chance you will have the ice falls at Prapic to yourselves for the day and can really experience the tranquility and beauty of ice climbing in the Southern Alps! Look out for chamois and golden eagles.
This is the one day you can have a lie in so make the most of it!!
There are plenty of things to do in the area from a day husky sledding to a day relaxing in the pool and jacuzzi complex.
So you can either relax and let your legs recover before the last two big days, try something completely different or continue ice climbing - we can organise another day with your guide for you.
It is really up to you and we can discuss the options available when you are here.
Please note that any activities organised for this day are not included in the price and would be payable as an extra, either at the time of booking if you already know what you would like to do or locally when you are here.
After your rest day and previous ice climbing training, you will now be ready for a big challenge!
This is a real adventure into a frozen canyon to experience a different type of ice climbing and it is just behind your accommodation - a secret canyon!
The canyon is a more mixed route with rock and ice and is a great opportunity to learn about 'dry tooling' and other methods of security on mixed routes.
Again you will be out for a full day so take provisions with you!
Parallel to the Champsaur valley is the spectacular Valgaudemar valley, a 22km long valley with 3000m+ peaks towering above you on either side! The choice of ice falls here is incredible!
A wild and natural valley with a real high mountain ambiance - a perfect location to end your week!
Your guide will help you choose which one would be a good one for you taking into consideration your progress and the local conditions so you can end on a grand finale!
There is the famous Le Voile de la Mariée which is situated just above the Gioberney refuge with a magnificent mountain backdrop. There is about an hour to walk in and 200m of beautiful ascent at grade IV/3+.
Or from the hameau du Bourg there is the Torrent du Bourg. To do this you have about an hour to walk in following a gorge before you attack the ice. It is 100m high and grade III/4 with an abseil descent.
Or from Le Casset is the 'Souvenirs inattendus" - unforgetabble memories! In good condition this is a classic! Another hour to walk in with 200m of ice climbing at grade III/4. Abseil descent.
Again you'll be out for the full day and away from shops and civilisation so a good stash of supplies needed!
This is the sad day when we have to say goodbye :( but we hope it will be more of an à bientôt than a goodbye!
We'll give take down to the station to catch your train.
